Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Kykuit


I have not blogged for a while because Susan was visiting.  We had a great time while she was here.  We toured the former Rockefeller home known as Kykuit in the Hudson River Valley north of New York.  Upon Nelson Rockefeller’s death in 1979 this massive building (36,000 square feet), the contents and grounds were donated to the National Trust for Historic Preservation.  Starting in 1994 a local agency began giving tours of the estate, and it is a terrific tour.

John D. Rockefeller was, of course, the richest man in the world when he decided to build himself a new home in 1913.  Under the guidance of his son, John, Jr., the Rockefellers built a massive four-story home, surrounding it with elaborate gardens.  They picked an incredible lot, high on a hill overlooking the Hudson River at its widest point.  The house has huge windows and a gigantic patio overlooking this view.  It is the kind of spot it is easy to imagine just sitting in all day and staring out at the view. 

The grounds are incredible. Not elaborate like Versailles, but big and well appointed.  There is a nine-hole golf course and an outbuilding with both indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a bowling alley.  There are rose gardens and a building where they used to grow orange trees during the winter to be replanted outside in the spring.  Apparently flowers were cut and brought to the house every day for decades.

Although Sr. was basically a bore, Jr. and his wife had an interest in art, primarily European art.  Upon the old man’s death, Jr. and his wife filled the home with art.  They commissioned a pretty ugly fountain, the replica of a piece from Florence, replete with statutes of Roman gods.  This monstrosity still sits at the end of the driveway in front of the home.  Jr. hung portraits, some of family, some of famous men like Washington and Lincoln and some because the background of the portrait included bodies of water.  Seriously.  That is like buying a painting because the color matches your furniture.

However, the third generation, Nelson Rockefeller, former governor of New York and Vice-President of the United States, was a art connoisseur.  Nelson hobnobbed with Picasso, among others.  He tore out the old kitchen which was in the basement of the home and installed what can only be described as an art museum.  Along with his Picassos he has pieces by Bracque, Calder, and Warhol.  The main room of the house is dominated by a huge Miro.  Rockefeller filled both his home and its grounds with sculpture by masters like Brancusi, David Smith, and Henry Moore, whom I believe he knew personally. 

Some of the more interesting pieces are tapestries of famous Picasso paintings which Rockefeller received permission from the artist to have created.  And while some critics describe this as tacky, I think they are fascinating.  These tapestries are huge, perhaps 10x6 feet, much larger than the paintings themselves.  Next to where Rockefeller had a pair of swimming pools (one for adults, one for children) was a small house which he used as a soda fountain.  Flanking the taps used to make ice cream sodas are two large vases made by Picasso.

All of these works passed to the National Trust for Historic Preservation along with the house and land.  They have left each piece exactly where it was placed at the time of Rockefeller’s death.  Whether this is by order of the bequest or their choice I don’t know.  Certainly all of the art is worth millions of dollars, perhaps hundreds of millions of dollars.  (After all one painting recently sold for $120 million dollars. About the total expenditure of the DA’s office for the past seven years.)  Unfortunately, the tour does not emphasize the art, and much is in areas which are not part of the tour, so we could only glimpse a fraction of this world-class collection.

The incredible generosity of the Rockefellers in donating this property to the National Trust is staggering.  Even if the family felt the house was too large and too old to maintain, there was no reason they could not have kept or sold the artwork.  Yet, this man who was in the one percent of the one percent gave it all to an organization devoted to preserving the history of this nation.  The Rockefellers are well-known for philanthropy and this is a classic example.

Personally, I wish they had chosen differently.  While the choice to leave the art with the house does allow insight into the way Nelson and his family lived, I think it does not do justice to the caliber of the work.  The tour we were on did walk us by the art and the guide even discussed some of the pieces superficially, but the impact is lost.  There are several different tours of this estate, but there is no tour specifically to showcase the incredible art collection.  It is almost an afterthought of showing how the rich live.  I have no idea what art sits on walls kept from view, but we could see upstairs at one point and obviously many pieces lined the walls.  I believe Rockefeller should have left all his artwork to the Museum of Modern Art which his mother helped found, or even to have authorized a sale.  The National Trust could raise enough money to protect many historic sites in America.  The artwork could have been preserved in a way which would allow for many more people to enjoy it, and it could be put in context with other works. 

I have included some pictures of the grounds, but they did not allow pictures inside the house.

Comments:
Regarding the comments about the lack of emphasis on the art. Some of us (Kykuit guides) spend a GREAT DEAL of our tour time talking not only about the collections, but also about the importance Nelson Rockefeller believed art played in the daily life of all of us. He thought of himself as "an environmental artist," because he felt that where you placed a work of art changed - or enhanced - the immediate environment, and the environment brought certain elements to bear on the art itself. Three pieces on the front porch - by Wotruba, Giacometti, and Brancusi illustrate this point very well.

You decry the lack of focus on the art. Interetingingly enough (sadly, actually) there used to be an "art tour" - focusing just on the art (and a similar tour of just the gardens), but there was not enough interest from the public to keep the tour going.

You may think that NAR should have given the art to MOMA (or some other museum), but the whole point of leaving it where it is is to illustrate to the public how important art was to the family in their daily lives. And just how they lived with it. Art to NAR was like oxygen to the rest of us - it revived him, refreshed him, restored him, energized him - and as you walk through the living spaces of the home, you can see clearly how integral it was to the life of the whole family. JDR Jr. was a collector of Chinese porcelains, NAR of sculpture and modern art, Abby, of Japanese art, Amerian Folk art, and the Impressionists. It was Abby who stamped the art gene into the Rockefeller DNA - and ALL of them were lovers and collectors of art. And artists. And the creative process.

Come back for another tour - you'll see for yourself!
A Kykuit Guide
 
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